Sewing my way through multiple muslins to fit BurdaStyle 10/2013 #116 was at times very frustrating, but it was also a pretty interesting process. Interesting now that hindsight has edited out the worst of the swearing and sulking!
I have learned that I am very easily tempted to look at individual fit issues in isolation and that isn’t good. One or two things catch my eye and I want at them straight away, regardless of whether it makes sense to work on them first. I get caught up in the minutiae of each set of wrinkles or creases, rather than view the garment as a whole.
I suppose a skinny trou pattern was as good a place as any to learn this about myself. #116 is not a particularly difficult or complicated pattern you’d think right?
BurdaStyle recommends two way stretch gabardine or equivalent but I ended up using woven cotton drill with a hint of lycra. Still not complicated.
I added some sideways ease to cater for reduced fabric stretch. Fine. Then I should have diagnosed a full butt alteration and gone for leather in my ‘fashion fabric’. Instead I fiddled no end with the crotch curve to try to sort out the wedgie and camel toe, then the horizontal fold wrinkles in the front crotch caught my attention and I was like a blind dog with a bone.
Muslin #3 I didn’t post because, frankly, it pissed me off too much. I got horribly confused trying to sort out those pesky horizontal wrinkles plus added unnecessary prominent calf and low butt alterations, raised then lowered the crotch curve different amounts, added front crotch width AND let out the front inseam.
What was I thinking?
It was epic really. The legs were twisting, fabric was bunching on my calves and under my butt and the wedgie was still there as were those Damned. Horizontal. Folds.
Muslin #4 was slightly better but still had a touch of ‘division’ front and back and it pulled uncomfortably when I walked – the crotch curve was not Emily-shaped at all. There was still bunching down my legs and while the horizontal folds had diminished a little they hadn’t gone.
I retreated to the lounge to sulk.
A few days later I reviewed all the comments on my skinny fitting posts and went through my books again. I even ordered a couple of new books. Then I retraced the pattern with 1″ wide seam allowances throughout and cut it out again making absolutely no changes whatsoever. The plan was to machine baste it together and start fitting again slowly and methodically tweaking with assistance from said books and several very helpful blogs.
It worked much better and I am still smiling. They could be closer and better fit and there are still wrinkles and folds but that’s fine this time. Oh, and here is a picture of the final changes I made to the crotch curve, in case you’re interested.
The thing I found most difficult, other than fixating on one fit issue, was sifting through all the information available on trouser fitting and then deciding what I needed to do when and where on my particular project. It is overload to the nth degree. So, in the end I used these:
Oh this is not the end of pants fitting for me. I know I can I know I can I know I can I know I can.