Stretch Calico

Did you know stretch calico exists?  [Oh I could do with a pun or two here but I’ll restrain myself.  Just for you]

Well, I had never heard of the stuff until mum gave me a short length.  She bought it years ago in the UK to make up a costume and, as all good fabric hoarders do, brought it half way around the world with her, popped it in the cupboard and promptly forgot all about it.

Anyway, it is a medium weight good quality stretch calico drill and I had enough to make up a short BurdaStyle 10/2012/116 muslin.

BS 10-2012-116 muslin2

‘Suddenly’ they look less leggings, don’t you think?  I added an extra 1/4″ at side seams and inseams for ease as a starter to ten, but more work is needed and this is what I’ve noticed so far:

* remove excess width towards the lower end of the zip on the left and equivalent on the right –  I can pinch out about 1/2″ an inch at each side.

* scoop out both front and back crotch curves – I’ll check this against my other BS pants curve.  Those whiskers are not diagonal so crotch length seems OK.

* horizontal wrinkles under my butt – there’s probably too much width at the back inseam

* too tight from the thighs down so I’ll add more ease in the legs.

StephC at 3hourspast.com did a series of posts on fitting skinny pants which I am finding very very useful.  Again.  So I’ve linked to the first post here and added it to my Useful Links at the right.

PS my apologies for disappearing somewhat of late.  Our household has hosted a succession of change of seasons lurgies then we had school holidays and now we’re in the midst of changing JJ’s work.  But, things should calm down now for a while with luck so I can get back to regular sewing and posting.

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31 Responses to Stretch Calico

  1. Well done, these look great, can’t wait to see the next iteration!

  2. sew2pro says:

    I’d always assumed your name was ironic! Well, something learnt!!

  3. Tanit-Isis says:

    OK, so I just want to say that this is probably what I’d call “really good fit” for stretch pants. Just sayin’. 😉

  4. Diana Deap says:

    Emily, Thank you for leaving a test comment on my blog I’l be back to check yours out!

  5. amaryllislog says:

    Again I am so impressed! Your diligence is paying off, now this needs to rub off on me but I’m such a chicken.

    They look really great, that is, your pant fitting. I have been thinking more and more about the Clover pattern. Maybe with some stretch calico!

  6. Jo says:

    Well done! You seem to know what you’re doing which is half the battle 🙂

  7. Karen Helm says:

    Great to see you again – or I guess that is “see part of you again”! I’m impressed with your diligence on fitting your pants. Best of luck as you progress on that!

  8. Gjeometry says:

    I did not know there was stretch calico! I like it, and like the “dyeing” idea.

  9. Oh my word…how fantastic is that? Your trousers are looking amazing, btw!

  10. Sewbussted says:

    Although these don’t have the exact fit that you would like, I would not put them aside. Pair them with a loose fitting top and I think they would be perfect.
    Just a few tweaks with this pattern and you’ll have the fit you want!

    • Thanks Rhonda – I’m really pleased actually as there aren’t many changes needed. Nothing wholesale anyway and I’m going to have fun changing the crotch curve, comparing that with my other trou. Its all learning AND I’ll get a pair of skinnies that fit. Its a good project to keep me indoors now that the weather has finally turned cold.

  11. I am not alone! What a good feeling 🙂 I am just at the same stage. So far I have made 4 muslin and re-make 4 times one of them… I always say – sewing the pants is not difficult – having good fittend pants – it is a challenge. As we sew to have good fitted garments I will not stop untill I get it right. I have got as well a lot of help from internet, online courses and good bloggers advices 🙂
    Yours pants looks mych better then mine – Congratulations! and Success!

    • I was looking at your third muslin and you are exactly where I am with pretty much the same issues around the front and back crotch. And I found my book less helpful here too, as you did. I reckon your pants and mine look the same so congrats and success to you too 🙂

      I’m going to follow 3hourspast.com approach as she addressed these issues, amongst other things, when she fitted her clovers – I have already re-traced my pattern out as it was rather messy already! Can’t wait to see how you get on and I’ll post about mine too 🙂

      • 🙂 I am about to re-trace my pattern for the same reason. Let’s start working on new musling 🙂 Let me know when you find a good solution!
        I think I was already checking 3hourspast.com but I can do this again 🙂

      • Yay! yes please! I just left a comment on your blog about this too lol. Anyway am off to take the kids to school so will be working on it tonight. 🙂 Good luck.

  12. Sandra says:

    I am determine to master pants but stretch calico sounds just the bees knees, must start the hunt for some of that stuff.

    • Oh mastering pants. That’d be fab – one day maybe I’ll get there. Thank god for the internet and all the info on pants fitting that it holds. And please do let me know if you find any stretch calico!

  13. SewingElle says:

    I’m impressed. Hope you can find something similar in weight to your stretch calico for the real thing. Or you could dye it?
    Glad to hear you are over the worst of sewing-interupting issues!

    • I could dye it if I could find more. I have scraps left only, unfortunately! I did find some bargain bin lycra cotton’ish stuff I’ll use for the next one, if necessary. That is before I cut into my lovely black cotton drill or stretch denim.

  14. CherryPix says:

    What a great muslin fabric! your ‘skinnies’ are looking pretty good! I am in awe of people who sew pants….

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