Stretchy stretchiness

I have just discovered wool ponte and love the stuff.  There is an element of quiet luxary in it’s drape and the softness of the weave.  Very nice.

Wool ponte is a fabric I have read about often since discovering sewing blogs but I have never had a reason to use it until now.  So, there is a little black bundle on my sewing table destined very soon to be made into these.

BS 10-2012-116

BurdaStyle 10/2012/116

But before cutting into my lovely black stuff I need to first make a muslin.  Of course I do, and therein lies a hook.  Muslining knits is a tricksy business because the same pattern made up in various stretch fabrics can fit and drape quite differently.

Hmmm.  I could simply go for it.  That is make the same adjustments I made to my last BS trou and cut into the ponte anyway.  I could but I can’t quite bring myself to do that, so after some thought last night I cut the pattern out in a cotton T-shirting with similar stretch to my ponte.  It will be a learning experience either way and the fabric store has plenty of wool left anyway.

What do you do to trial knit patterns and fabrics?

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35 Responses to Stretchy stretchiness

  1. sigrid says:

    I find it all impossible. The combination of knits and trousers seems terrifying, but if you get it right, it will be perfection.

  2. Sandra says:

    Ooh wool ponte sound very luxurious. I get cold knees and often have to wear tights under jeans, but a pair of wool stretch pants would be just the ticket! I like the pattern you have chosen as well, fitted waist and zip is so much nicer than an elastic waist! BTW I have never bothered toiling knit patterns. I usually just buy extra of the fabric, make up the first and hope for the best, knowing that if the fit is really dire I have that bit extra.

    • I thought so too so I hope I can Make Them Fit hey! Wow tights under jeans is something I do too when it gets really cold. I was thinking of finding some woolly ones like the kids have but haven’t found any in my size yet lol. For these trou extra fabric is probably going to be needed I think. We’ll see.

  3. Sandra says:

    I would be very interested to know where you purchased your fabric in Wellington. Pants are the next on my list and I’m into a really close fit pant (like your pattern) but haven’t really laid my hands on anything other than a stretch cotton. Looking forward to seeing your pants finished.

    • Hey Sandra – the most recent fabric retailer bought stuff I got from The Fabric Warehouse on Thorndon Quay, just next door to Spotlight. I have bought from Global Fabrics but not much and not recently. Have you been to Warehouse Fabrics?

      I’m looking forward to seeing the pants finished too lol. I’m going to fiddle about with them tomorrow hopefully. Fingers crossed.

  4. dressesandme says:

    The only muslin I have ever made was for a knit dress. I never made the final version but the muslin is quite wearable (in winter) (under lots of layers) (if you’re not looking to closely)

  5. This will be so luxe when they’re done. My first reaction is that these will have been drafted from the same block as the last pair you made so will probably need the same adjustments to this pattern. I find it frustrating that you can’t really do an equivalent toile with knits, but using the t-shirt fabric should iron out most of the quirks and then 1″ seam allowances on your ponte should allow you enough room to tweak the fit as you sew.

    • Thanks Evie I hope so, about the finish anyway. With luck they’ll look as good as they feel right? One can always hope anyway.

      The 1″ seam allowance is a good idea and I have enough of the cheaper cotton fabric to go with so that’s good. I’ve decided to make a pair with no alterations at all so I have a starting point to compare with ‘the altered state’ and with the other pants unaltered version too. It will hopefully give me a better understanding of the base block used by BS. T’will be interesting at least.

  6. amaryllislog says:

    Well that is a very good question and I have absolutely no answer, helpful as always…not.

    But if it were me I would make a muslin as planned if for no other reason to know how to navigate the pattern.

    Sorry I’m of no help at all but I look forward to your success! In other-words I know you can do it!

    • But you do have an answer and I agree! So there. Anyway I can’t help myself. I have to make a muslin somehow and this will be another learning process to boot. So, I hit my retentiveness and my learning sponge brain buttons all in one go. Perfect lol.

  7. CGCouture says:

    Good luck! I’ve not heard of wool ponte before, I thought it was all some sort of combination of rayon/poly/lycra.

    • Me too but it keeps popping up in the world of wool and feels lovely. It does have some synthetic in it too – can’t remember what but it isn’t a lot. Hopefully I won’t bugger it up …. can always get more if I do though lol.

  8. Sewbussted says:

    This pattern is going to look wonderful on you.
    Especially if I’m working with a knit, I never do a muslin. But with your lovely fabric, I can see why you would want to. Good luck!!

  9. sewbusylizzy says:

    Never. I’m a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants kinda gal. I measure the paper pattern and pray

    • I probably need more fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants -ishness! Will probably have to do it with this pattern anyway even with a muslin. Ha ha. At least I’ll get practice sewing the correct side of the waist facing to the pants though ….. And get a go or two at the zipper before having to do it for reals.

      • sewbusylizzy says:

        The only time I make a muslin is when I know it’s a pattern with fit issues or I know the brand doesn’t fit me out of the envelope.

      • Well I was thinking the same about these pants but they are such a different shape from the other BurdaStyle trou I made that I’m not sure. Do you think I could just do the same adjustments I did to those other ones and it ‘should’ be mostly OK? The thing is that the last pair were more roomy but these are just not.

      • sewbusylizzy says:

        Good news on the indecisive front – I picked one and I’m nearing the finish line. It’s been a looooooong weekend of sewing. I’m tired and I’ve still got to start Stage 2!

      • Yay you’ve selected a pattern to go with. Now go to bed early OK? Stage 2 will wait until you are ready. Promise.

      • sewbusylizzy says:

        Have you compared the other pattern to this one? Or put a pair of RTW pants that a a similar style to the pattern?

      • The only pair of skinnies I have are jeans and I hadn’t thought to compare them. Interesting thought thank you. Hmmm.

  10. Gjeometry says:

    Ya, go for it! I’m that kind of person, I just go ahead and do it. I know it’s not the best way as you can mess up your fabric, but….I guess it all depends on how much you spent on that lovely fabric and how easy it is to get more, JUST in case.

  11. Funnygrrl says:

    I would just go for it myself. Cut yourself extra seam allowances maybe. Too hard to get the same result from a different knit.
    Just my opinion.

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