‘Tis done – BurdaStyle Autumn/Winter 2012 #14

P1040489The fabric is a lovely crisp white cotton lawn from which I cut a size 38, but after all was said and done (and I fiddled with fit a lot) I’m just not in love with this shirt.

Oh.  You’ll have to ignore the shorts and imagine something a little more umm appropriate since I had no time to change for the pics.  It has been shorts weather without rain for weeks and weeks now, unusually so.  Please send us some rain?  Pretty please?

Where was I?  Oh yes, the shirt.  I do like the collar and lapel but the way the double layered ties cross at the back then sit over each other all the way around add far too much bulk to my lower waist.  I don’t think it’d be flattering for anyone to have extra width there frankly.

P1040485To balance that a little, I am chuffed with how I fitted and finished this garment.  It was a little bit of grown up sewing, if you know what I mean, with the rolled and notched collar and lapel, which I practiced a lot actually before sewing up the final piece.

But oh the fitting was immensely enormously fun.  I was surprised just how much I enjoyed researching and practicing each step, driving poor JJ nuts with my muttering and tut tutting.  In the end I made eight alterations.  Eight!  Somewhat over the top for this style probably but if you don’t do it you don’t learn you see.  Here’s the list:

* 1 & 1/8″ sleeve head ease reduction (thanks Sallieoh)

* dropped the waist by 1 & 3/4″

* 1″ SBA plus a 1/4″ narrow chest alteration (thank you Hungry Zombie Couture for the former)

* raised the bust dart by 1″ and lengthened the waist darts by the same amount

* let out lower side seams 3/8″ each side

* 1/2″ erect back alteration.

There is one more I missed – the armscye needs deepening a smidge.  Never mind.


Now, as I put this post together I’m looking back at the first muslin I made (pic below) which was a straight size 38 and I wonder if the excess fabric in the upper chest and back areas disguised how much bulk there was around my middle.

BS 00014 muslin

I didn’t change the ties in the final garment at all, though I did consider it for a while.  Of course I wouldn’t wear a straight size 38 as the fit is awful but it makes me wonder if the style would be better suited on someone with more bust than me.  You’d still have that unsexy extra volume on the hips/waist…..

Anyway, next up is one of these …

BS 10-2012-116BS 10-2012-118

Of course, I have fabric for both all ready to go.  A lovely black ponte for the trousers and a rich lightish brown wool for the dress.  Hmmm decisions decisions decisions.

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42 Responses to ‘Tis done – BurdaStyle Autumn/Winter 2012 #14

  1. A. says:

    i really like your top. It makes me think of the french company “Anne Fontaine” (specializes in white tops just like yours. Very chic!

  2. Tia Dia says:

    Love it! I can’t wait to make my own version. And I am seriously impressed with all the care you took in fitting it so well. It’s gorgeous!

  3. Oh but I do love it.. the style and everything…and you did such a job well done 🙂 I remember seeing the muslin and just being so excited about seeing the final product! 😀 It looks great on you, honestly!

    • Thank you very much! 🙂 and its growing on me actually, though I need some more higher waist-ed pants etc to wear with it eventually. Hubs still doesn’t like it but he has only seen me wearing it with shorts and isn’t very good at ‘imagining’ lol.

  4. I love it! You look really great in this top/blouse! I love this type of wraps…

  5. Rosy says:

    That blouse looks great on you! It really was worth all the settings and extra work to get this beautiful garment, it certainly will have a lot of wear …I believe that to counter the volume at the waist, you should use it with a circle skirt …. oh .. That would be lovely!

  6. Javie says:

    From your pictures, the shirt looks great. You did a nice job with the fitting too. Maybe if the fabric was a bit lighter (lawn?) it wouldn’t be so bulky in the middle?

    • Thanks Javie – I’m dead chuffed with the fitting. Yay! I think the lighter fabric idea is a really good one and I even have some voile in the stash I could try. Even better that it was on sale for $2/metre …. can’t miss really. I’m going to muck about with the ties design too to see if I can figure out a way to do it with fewer layers. Somehow.

  7. sew2pro says:

    Oh it’s lovely. I hope it grows on you. If it looked like that on me, I’d wear it all the time (well, maybe not in the kitchen!)

    • Oh thank you … I’m going to have to rethink for sure lol. And nothing white ever ever goes near the kitchen. I made steak for dinner tonight and thank goodness for aprons is all I’m going to say …

  8. symondezyn says:

    I really, REALLY like this on you!!! You did an amazing job, and it shows 🙂 I honestly do agree with the above posters that you should give it a fair shake with a crisp pair of trou, because I really think you’d get a better feel for the “smartness” of the style that way. If it was made in a drapier voile, it would pair perfectly with casual shorts, but I think that elegant crisp white fabric demands a strong dark trouser to balance it off 🙂

    • You do? Thanks Amanda … I’ve started on the trousers already, well tracing them anyway so we shall see, in the fullness of time anyway.

      GOod idea about the voile to casual it up …. hmmmm

  9. Gjeometry says:

    Oooh, I like this, it is very crisp and sharp looking! I have to say, that I also think wrap-arounds of any nature, dress or blouse look better on folks with, uhhhh, a lot of junk in the hood? bonnet? Lol, you know what I mean. It just seems to wrap better and have a more flattering silhouette.

  10. CherryPix says:

    I think this is another ‘great bones’ top….and agree with trying it in a softer fabric….drapey cotton voile? Or possibly even a soft but stable knit! You’ve done so much great work on getting the fit right!

    • And I have some lovely drapey voiles in the stash. Interesting to do a stable knit – I hadn’t thought of that. Nice thought. I’m going to fiddle with the tie layout. It does have good bones.

  11. dressesandme says:

    Sometimes it’s about the journey more than the destination and it seems that you enjoyed the alteration process. I’m not very good at making alterations, I only do it at the very end when it’s kinda too late. One day I’ll learn.

  12. I love its crispy whity yumminess, white shirts of all sorts please me immensely. Until I slop pizza or butter onto the front of them, of course 😉 I love the combo of freshness and drape on you, it suits your personality. Please wear it – not everything about a garment being flattering is about the slimminess or whatever. 🙂 Also, in the wrapover world, have you seent he new Pavlova pattern? The crossover knit top is so cool!

    • LOL butter down the white shirt is something I know so well. Thank god for washing machines! And butter too, of course.

      Thank you Maryanne and you’re absolutely right about the slimminess and garments not always being important. I want to like it and will be testing it out again when it has been firmly laundered to remove chalk marks etc (probably butter too, come to think of it). Have seen the Pavlova pattern and am going to buy it soon – ie when I have knocked a few more things from my To Make List (note capitals). :o)

  13. The fit is great, well done. I think that it looks fine too and you’ve got some great suggestions for it to. Perhaps also make it in something less crisp, which won’t have as much body in the ties? Good luck with the dress and trousers too.

  14. Andrea says:

    The shirt turned out quite nice, and fits well. I think it looks great on you! Perhaps you need some time away from it after all that work – and then try it with some bottoms from your wardrobe. Maybe it will grow on you. At the very least, all that experience with fitting will serve you well.

  15. CGCouture says:

    Bummer that you don’t like that blouse, because I think it looks amazing on you–shorts and all! That collar! Those sleeves! The fit! Gorgeous!! I’d just redraft* a bottom half and try it again, because there’s so much to love about this one. 🙂 (*Ha! I say that like it’d be just SO easy, LOL!)

    Anyway, I’d vote for the dress, but honestly, the pants would probably be more practical for the upcoming fall/winter. And I’d send you some rain if we had some to spare, but with year three (or is it four?) of drought, I’d probably just hoard it all if we had any anyway. Hopefully we both get some rain soon!

    • Oh cripes that’s right about your loooong drought, I completely forgot. How selfish of me – you keep the rain for sure.

      Glad you like the shirt …. maybe it will grow on me. Oh and yes I could change the ties which probably wouldn’t require much actually. I’ll have to ponder on that one and have a squizz at the other wrap shirts patterns in my stash.

      Oh and I’m leaning towards the trousers too …. this morning anyway lol.

  16. Karen says:

    Isn’t it frustrating when you put so much work into something and then just aren’t quite happy with the finished product? It happens to all of us… Have you tried shortening (or lengthening) the sleeves? It seems to me they add more to the illusion of bulk at the waist at the length they are at present. Just a thought …

    • Oh so very frustrating but your thought about the sleeves is very interesting – thanks Karen. Hmmm, though there is just so much fabric wrapped around my middle …. I’m going to mull this.

  17. amaryllislog says:

    Maybe it’s a case of spending to much time together and with a little separation it will grow on you? I think it will be really flattering with the trousers you are planning to make. And I see no bulk at your back, you are slim and elegant!

    As for rain, I could melt some snow for you if that would help!

    • You’re probably right and I do think the trousers will be a good match too, so I shan’t do anything rash! Oh you say the best things, thank you :o) – I have chucked the top into the wash so perhaps I’ll feel more inclined to try it on with other things when it is all dry and pressed etc.

      Melted snow? And those gorgesou little snow drop flowers too? Do you get those? So pretty.

      • amaryllislog says:

        I’m sure a good washing will change your mind about your blouse, it will be beat to submission!

        Snow drop flowers, sounds lovely. I don’t believe I’m familiar with them, do share please!

      • lol and I’ll iron the thing good too 😉 so it will have to relax, or something.

        I’ll find pics of snowdrops and add them to my next post ….

  18. Eight alterations is about average for me per pattern. They all paid off for you and I love the crisp white shirt!

  19. sewbusylizzy says:

    Sometimes the process is more fun than the end result. I’m really keen to try a pair of the Burda trousers, the design looks so simple but very stylish. Good luck!

  20. SewingElle says:

    Great top. Well done on all those alterations. It looks like it fits splendidly.
    I have that dress on my (long) to do list, so I hope you make that one first!

    • Thank you m’dear and I am very pleased with the fit. It is a good dress right? I am a slow slow slow sewer so you may get there first making it lol. I shall keep an eagle eye on your blog too just in case :o)

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