Oh. You’ll have to ignore the shorts and imagine something a little more umm appropriate since I had no time to change for the pics. It has been shorts weather without rain for weeks and weeks now, unusually so. Please send us some rain? Pretty please?
Where was I? Oh yes, the shirt. I do like the collar and lapel but the way the double layered ties cross at the back then sit over each other all the way around add far too much bulk to my lower waist. I don’t think it’d be flattering for anyone to have extra width there frankly.
To balance that a little, I am chuffed with how I fitted and finished this garment. It was a little bit of grown up sewing, if you know what I mean, with the rolled and notched collar and lapel, which I practiced a lot actually before sewing up the final piece.
But oh the fitting was immensely enormously fun. I was surprised just how much I enjoyed researching and practicing each step, driving poor JJ nuts with my muttering and tut tutting. In the end I made eight alterations. Eight! Somewhat over the top for this style probably but if you don’t do it you don’t learn you see. Here’s the list:
* 1 & 1/8″ sleeve head ease reduction (thanks Sallieoh)
* dropped the waist by 1 & 3/4″
* 1″ SBA plus a 1/4″ narrow chest alteration (thank you Hungry Zombie Couture for the former)
* raised the bust dart by 1″ and lengthened the waist darts by the same amount
* let out lower side seams 3/8″ each side
* 1/2″ erect back alteration.
There is one more I missed – the armscye needs deepening a smidge. Never mind.
Now, as I put this post together I’m looking back at the first muslin I made (pic below) which was a straight size 38 and I wonder if the excess fabric in the upper chest and back areas disguised how much bulk there was around my middle.
I didn’t change the ties in the final garment at all, though I did consider it for a while. Of course I wouldn’t wear a straight size 38 as the fit is awful but it makes me wonder if the style would be better suited on someone with more bust than me. You’d still have that unsexy extra volume on the hips/waist…..
Anyway, next up is one of these …
Of course, I have fabric for both all ready to go. A lovely black ponte for the trousers and a rich lightish brown wool for the dress. Hmmm decisions decisions decisions.