Trouser muslin #2

Winter is well and truly here and my sewing room is snug, perfect for avoiding housework and other chores.  As is mucking about with crotch alterations apparently.  I really really need to get cleaning.  Soon.

Consequently my muslin has been sewn, unpicked, re-sewn, measured and pinned to within an inch of its life, poor thing, and I have learned one or two things.  Crotch depth seems to be more or less OK but depth is a little out both front and back, and this is where most of my time went.

Anyway, I thought I needed more seam allowance room than was available in muslin #1 so #2 was born.  Then I worked on it and ended up with this:

Before we start, I should have ironed it before taking the photos as you can see front crotch smiles from a previous un-picked alteration I didn’t need to do.  And while you’re at it please ignore the slightly strange wrinkles in the middle of the fly and at centre back.  Pin malfunctions.

So?  Well, I needed to look at three things – crotch depth bagging below my butt, sticky-outy waistband and apparently my calves are a little prominent.  If you would like the details then please read on.

(1) waistband and centre back – I pinned a 3/4″ wedge out of the centre back from the top of the band down to the start of the crotch curve.  I may look into drawing up a shaped waistband, if I can figure out how to do it.

(2) Sunni’s Fashionable Stitch Sewing School was very useful identifying crotch depth issues and I removed 3/4″ from the front inseam to remove a little bit of excess there.  I probably didn’t really need to but I did anyway and it was useful to learn.  I’ll keep to wide-ish seam allowances there for the next pair I make just in case smiles return.

(3) Crotch attack didn’t end there.  For the bagginess under my butt and the slight wedgie I added 3/4″ width into the back inseam.

(4) Butt bagginess remained so I tried adding 3/4″ more to the back inseam which didn’t work either and we’re now talking about 1.5″ more width in there.  Just silly.  So I re-read my book, took out the second 3/4″ and roughly pinned out a horizontal tuck just below my butt.  A mere 1/2″ in the centre tapering to nothing each side – I suppose I could take out a smidge more.  Ah Ha.  Solution.

Oh I know there are still some front diagonal folds from thigh outseam to knee and little ripples at the sides over my hips.  They don’t bother me enough so I’m ignoring them.

Its all good.  I have to say I’m pleased with what I’ve learned and now need to transfer the changes to the paper pattern.  Then there’s a pile of calico scraps for me to practice welt pockets on.  Oh, and some reading to do on shaped waistbands.  Fab.

PS I’ve just had another look at the pics and you know, it looks a little roomy in the back just below the seat.  I don’t think its cos of the pinned tuck as its a little large on both sides – wee wings sorta.  Hmmm, I feel another muslin coming on to check, or shouldn’t I worry?

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28 Responses to Trouser muslin #2

  1. Pella says:

    Looking pretty good fish eye dart ‘n all. How do you find your fitting book by the way? I checked it out on amazon, and it did seem pricey, worth the money?

    • It is very much worth the money. I have used it for trou for me and mum and its very useful. I will get a lot more use out of it when I move on to fitting that there bodice I’ve been procrastinating on.

  2. MrsC says:

    Why don’t you come and sew with us at Made on Marion, Wednesday nights, after work until 9 or so? Hanging out with other experienced sewists is a quick way to get good feedback and, well, it’s sociable eh 🙂 And we’d love to meet some more local sewing bloggers!

    • Hey Mrs C – I am planning to but have a slight issue with lack of husband for the next couple of week so am juggling logistics. That being said I’ve connected with another lovely Welly stitchy blogger and we’re muttering about getting together too ….. Oh it must be fate hey? Now, where’s my babysitter list?

  3. Sigrid says:

    I think they look pretty darn good. I have decided that that bagginess below the butt is inevitable unless the thigh is cut super tight or one has a flat butt and never sits down.

    • Oh well you are probably right, and then it all changes when we actually move (walk, run. bend). Perhaps we could just live life sitting down then no-one would notice?

  4. Tia Dia says:

    I am sooooo lazy when it comes to muslining pants. And I always wish I would get over the laziness and just do a muslin already, y’know, because every single pair I’ve made as at least one fitting issue. You are an inspiration! And I feel some muslins brewing on the back burners of my mind….

    • Oh thank you. I actually think you are inspriational my dear because, with or without muslins, you make lovely lovely clothes. :o) I also have to admit to having more muslins than “finished objects”, so perhaps I’m taking the trial garmenting thing a little far …. Hmmmm

  5. I like those! They look near perfect. I do think that you need to take the outer leg in a bit below the hipbone (I tend to get the same side wings because I don’t have nicely rounded hips — I get around them by using a ruler to draw a straight line through that area, then it won’t bubble on me).

    • Thanks – I’m pretty pleased but will take out the wings. Of course, my ability to sew good waistband and zippers could change everything … :o) And I ‘ll do the ruler thing on those wings later to see how it goes. Thanks for the tip. Sometimes I wish I had curves in the ‘right’ places!

  6. Jo says:

    Ooh, fancy! I’m jealous of your fitting abilities, lol! These are looking good 🙂

  7. Looking great. In front are those tension folds or extra length being pushed down? I have similar posture to yours and I always end up lowering the waistband in front

  8. Javie says:

    What tenacity in the muslin-making! If it makes you feel more comfortable and you don’t want to cut into nice fabric, go ahead and make another one (or reuse the one you have). It is not uncommon to do this for fitting pants. A awhile ago, I made ‘one’ pants muslin and then jumped into the real thing. I wish I perfected the fit before cutting into some nice wool. Now, I have made umpteen fitting changes to the woolen pants and still have some issues! Ugh!

    • Oh no! I will re-use #1 if I can. Do you think the fit issues that persisted with your pants after many muslins were your perfetionism clouding your view? I just know that now I have a bit of a handle on what good fit looks like I am much less tolerant of poor fit in RTW and elsewhere….

      • Javie says:

        I used to think that it was perfectionism but after taking a recent fitting class (with Sarah Veblen), not any more. Some people were on their 4th or 5th muslins after she was through with fitting us. The more you know, the more demanding you can be.

      • And I bet the first muslins didn’t fit too badly either!

  9. Tanit-Isis says:

    They are looking really good! re your PS, i might take in the side seam a smidge in that area—not much though!

    • Thanks Tanit – I think I will need to too, even if then I need to deal with the hip ripples.. Funny. I didn’t notice the ‘wings’ till the last minute and now I can’t get them out of my head.

  10. Claire says:

    Dear Calico,

    I admire your perseverance in getting the pants muslin right. I think they look great!

    I jumped over to the Fashionable Stitch site to have a look. Thanks for the reference, it looks like a place I’ll be exploring more in depth.

  11. It´s looking great – what patience you have, but it will pay off!

  12. Jane's sew & tell says:

    Looking good! Trousers are so difficult to get right I’m really impressed with your perseverance

  13. Kalina says:

    Wow, I’m so impressed! Pants are on my to do list but not for any time soon. And I am far too lazy to make two muslins. Good luck with the project, looking forward to seeing the finished pants!

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