Winter is well and truly here and my sewing room is snug, perfect for avoiding housework and other chores. As is mucking about with crotch alterations apparently. I really really need to get cleaning. Soon.
Consequently my muslin has been sewn, unpicked, re-sewn, measured and pinned to within an inch of its life, poor thing, and I have learned one or two things. Crotch depth seems to be more or less OK but depth is a little out both front and back, and this is where most of my time went.
Anyway, I thought I needed more seam allowance room than was available in muslin #1 so #2 was born. Then I worked on it and ended up with this:
Before we start, I should have ironed it before taking the photos as you can see front crotch smiles from a previous un-picked alteration I didn’t need to do. And while you’re at it please ignore the slightly strange wrinkles in the middle of the fly and at centre back. Pin malfunctions.
So? Well, I needed to look at three things – crotch depth bagging below my butt, sticky-outy waistband and apparently my calves are a little prominent. If you would like the details then please read on.
(1) waistband and centre back – I pinned a 3/4″ wedge out of the centre back from the top of the band down to the start of the crotch curve. I may look into drawing up a shaped waistband, if I can figure out how to do it.
(2) Sunni’s Fashionable Stitch Sewing School was very useful identifying crotch depth issues and I removed 3/4″ from the front inseam to remove a little bit of excess there. I probably didn’t really need to but I did anyway and it was useful to learn. I’ll keep to wide-ish seam allowances there for the next pair I make just in case smiles return.
(3) Crotch attack didn’t end there. For the bagginess under my butt and the slight wedgie I added 3/4″ width into the back inseam.
(4) Butt bagginess remained so I tried adding 3/4″ more to the back inseam which didn’t work either and we’re now talking about 1.5″ more width in there. Just silly. So I re-read my book, took out the second 3/4″ and roughly pinned out a horizontal tuck just below my butt. A mere 1/2″ in the centre tapering to nothing each side – I suppose I could take out a smidge more. Ah Ha. Solution.
Oh I know there are still some front diagonal folds from thigh outseam to knee and little ripples at the sides over my hips. They don’t bother me enough so I’m ignoring them.
Its all good. I have to say I’m pleased with what I’ve learned and now need to transfer the changes to the paper pattern. Then there’s a pile of calico scraps for me to practice welt pockets on. Oh, and some reading to do on shaped waistbands. Fab.
PS I’ve just had another look at the pics and you know, it looks a little roomy in the back just below the seat. I don’t think its cos of the pinned tuck as its a little large on both sides – wee wings sorta. Hmmm, I feel another muslin coming on to check, or shouldn’t I worry?