BurdaStyle 04-2011-104

My BurdaStyle pants are all calico’d up and ready to check.  No alterations done yet and they are without fly front zipper or pockets. Oh, apologies for the creases – I wore them while setting up for the pictures.

Overall I’m relatively happy with the fit, other than:

(1) horizontal wrinkles at the front just before the crotch curve

(2) the side seams hang straight to the knee then there’s a little too much fabric in the front, plus diagonal folds at the front outseam from thigh to knee.  Not sure what’s going on there yet

(4) too much fabric under my butt and ripples down the side seams over the hips.  Will have to look into the latter

(5) the waistband (high hip band??) gapes particularly at the CB – I could take at least 3/4″ out there alone.  There is also about an inch too much room all around at the top

(6) a few small horizontal wrinkles at the side seams just below the band

(7) they pull up my butt just a little.

I have a bit of reading to do on some of these, but a sway back adjustment should fix some of the others.  All of this aside, do you know what I’m looking forward to most?  Oddly enough the welt pockets.  What’s wrong with me?


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14 Responses to BurdaStyle 04-2011-104

  1. Anne W says:

    I made these for daughter no 2 last year, that wiastband is a pain, because it is a straight one, and it really would be waaaaay better being a shaped one. I have to admit that’s what I did for her, I had to take the back seam in at an angle, then I pinned the waistband to a decent shape and used it to cut a paper pattern. The fit is fine now. Not sure what to suggest for your other fitting issues though… :s

  2. Tia Dia says:

    This looks like a lovely pair of pants in the making. I’m going to be following your progress very closely because perfection in pants would be amazing! I’m happy with my latest pair, but there’s always something that could be improved upon for the next pair of trousers.

  3. Lakaribane says:

    I think you might also need a little butt space. There’s a fancy bendable ruler (I forget the name) but you can also make it with a roll of aluminum foil (tear a long sheet and roll it). You use this to mold your back crotch and compare to the shape of the pattern.

    Sunni’s sewalong posts from last year might help you (scroll down) :

    I have similar folds on the back of most of my pants and fund that I had to take a crescent that is 1,5cm (5/8in) at the most curved part of my pants pattern, tapering to nothing in the other directions. I had done the foil thing and guestimated the need. You can also measure your crotch length from CF waist to CB waist and compare that measurement to the pattern crotches. If there is a difference, you will have to add/substract accordingly. I find that you need to add to the side seams to restore the full width of the pattern pieces (since you are removing some fabric, after all and you need the full pattern width to be comfortable)

    As for the gaping at the back, it’s either stretched out or you have a swayback adjustment to do.

    I’m tackling a straight leg pant pattern soon and will really test these theories. Good luck!

    • Thanks for the tip for comparing crotch shape (and length) to the pattern, which is at the top of my list. JJ is going to think I’m a loon when I get the aluminium foil out! Who needs a fancy bendy ruler really. I’m glad to say also that Sunni’s pants sewalong was already on my list to check through again :o)

      Good luck with the straight leg pants – I will be very interested to see how you find theory testing too

  4. Think they look great..well done..and a fantastic style!

  5. Andi says:

    I think some of your problems are due to the nature of your material. Muslin just doesn’t hang right, and a heavier pants material will drape much better (or closer to the way it’s supposed to drape anyhow). The extra fabric may be behaving badly because it’s too lightweight, and the design looks like it’s supposed to be loose and body-skimming anyway? One other question — did you interface the waistband? Because that gap looks like it might just be stretched out of shape. If not, then I would split the waistband at center back and add a seam there. That way, you can take in the seam at a slant and make it more snug around the waist. You’re also supposed to ease a waistband onto pants, and I have the best results with starting in the middle and going towards the end. That way, any extra material can simply be removed from the tips when finishing the waistband.

    Honestly, these look like they fit pretty close to great. I might try sewing the center seam at 3/8″ to release the wrinkles, then sew the outer seams at 3/4″ to take up some of the extra material. Since you don’t have to worry about pockets around your seams, you can fudge and take in up to 1″ on the outer sides (but not more or it will destroy the lines of the pants). Also, I think you need extra length in your upper thigh because the slimmest area of the leg is NOT hitting around your knees. The pants are definitely TOO SHORT. A little of the ol’ slash and spread should take care of that.

    • Hi Andi – I was thinking about the calico being helluva lightweight too so its nice to know I am on the right track. The linen or denim options for the real deal trou are heavier though not enormously so so it will be interesting.

      The waistband is a straight band in two pieces with a CB seam so I will def. be taking a wedge out of it. I didn’t interface it for the muslin because I couldn’t be bothered for a couple of fittings and its cut on the straight grain anyway so ‘should’ retain its shape long enough. Interesting about easing the band onto pants and I’ll be doing the joining from the CB seam out next time – thanks for the tip – plus do a bit of book reading on the subject too.

      I was wondering about the knee thing and you’re right so will lengthen above there when I sew them up properly. When you say too short you mean at the crotch right? Its pretty marginal too so will do the slash and spread thing too – ta.

      • Andi says:

        Hmm, I was thinking the length in the legs was the main issue, but if you have pulling in both the front and back of the crotch then both the front and back rise need to be lengthened (but not a lot — maybe 3/8″, a half inch max — a little goes a long way). On the other hand, if all the pulling is at the back, then you need to slash and spread the triangle that juts out from the crotch. Do a vertical cut on the pattern, parallel to the grain line, and extend the back crotch by a smidge. Hope this makes sense! Threads archives had a good tutorial about well-fitting jeans that describes the crotch alteration, but I can’t find it again.

      • I remember reading that Threads article – probably bookmarked it. Thanks Andi. Need to check the crotch cos there is a little pulling.

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