Wrinkles and creases

And here finally in all its wrinkled unaltered glory is the size 12 bodice block on me.

Man my right arm looks weirdly enlarged in the rear view pic…. but ignore that as best you can.  Also please note that there are 5/8″ seam allowances at the armscye and neckline which I should have omitted and will next time.

Righto, the changes I believe I need to make so far are:

  1. There is quite a lot of excess fabric across my upper back and chest.  Most of the following things I think are contributing to this so I’ll see how it is in the next version before trying to fix it specifically.
  2. CF and CB at the neck are too high – CF by half an inch or so and CB by closer to an inch, with the current seam allowance taken into account.
  3. Small bust adjustment – the bust points need to come up and inwards by about half an each and are both about 1″ too full.
  4. Lower the waist by 1″, though I shall check this after I’ve lowered the neckline and done the SBA.
  5. I need to alter for my sway back by an inch or so plus drop the waist by another inch.
  6. Its too tight across my hips which I’ll accommodate within the seam allowance.
  7. Finally for now, I’m shorter from shoulder to arm hinge by enough that it is pulling up into my underarms plus I can pinch a good couple of inches right along the shoulder seams.

That’s enough to start with.  Obviously I’ll need to draft some sleeves to add the mix, but I think I’ll avoid that extra complication for now.  Chicken?  Yep but also happily and quietly excited as I plod through the process.

Please do chime in with suggestions if you fancy because I know I’m way off on some things and completely blind to a myriad of others.  Oh the blissful ignorance of a beginner.

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10 Responses to Wrinkles and creases

  1. Emma says:

    http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block

    Have you tried following this tutorial. I am a novice and have followed this carefully and have now got the most perfectly fitting bodice block. Good luck!

    • Hi Emma and thanks for the link. I did think about making a bodice based on my measurements and I probably will at some point. Aside from being a sucker for punishment, with not much time to work in, I really want to learn more about fitting to my shape so I can apply that learning to commercial patterns. How’s that for the easy ride hey?!

  2. Can´t add anything useful here (not enough experience) but am learning a lot from you and your commenters so thanks so much!

  3. Tanit-Isis says:

    My first impression is actually that the waist is a little long (not short), and shortening it would probably reduce that back wrinkling plenty.

    That being said, I’m no expert, and I’m short-waisted myself so I might very well be projecting…

    Overall, though, it’s looking good 🙂

    • Thanks Tanit and you know what? You’re right it does look like I need to bring the waist up in the pic. Man there are lots of creases. OK I just re-checked by tying yarn around my middle and doing the funky chicken for a bit. My waist is lower than the block but I think I’ll fix the seam allowances first and see what happens.

  4. Lena Merrin says:

    Good start though! 🙂 I agree with Catherine, seam allowances off at neck and armscyes, then you’ll see if the shoulder is of correct width. I agree, the back and chest are too wide and back is too long. Now you can relax and put your arms down :)) And I wouldn’t rush with the sleeve just yet, until you are happy with the armscye there is no point really. Great job!

  5. I think the only thing I’d suggest is to just cut off the seam allowances at the neck and arms and try it on once more to see if that makes any difference. I’m no expert though! Good luck with take two, and show us what you come up with.

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